The gold is wearing off at the edges and a grey or brass colour shows through. Two or three little stones have fallen out and left empty holes. The piece was never expensive, but it matters to you. Most of this can be repaired by mail — but on a plated or fashion piece, the repair often costs about as much as a new one. This page says that plainly, explains why, and helps you decide before you spend anything.
Replacing or re-setting stones is in the Stone Setting group, from $79, with a replacement stone charged at cost. Clasps, jump rings and links are in Necklaces & Chains, from $79. Re-plating is quoted individually from your photos, because the price depends on what is under the plating. You get one firm written number first, and nothing is worked on until you approve it.
First: what is your piece actually made of?
Everything else on this page depends on this one answer. “Gold jewelry” covers four very different things, and they repair differently.
| What it is | How it is made | Stamps you may find |
|---|---|---|
| Solid gold | Gold alloy all the way through. It can be sized, soldered and refinished over and over | 10K, 14K, 18K, or 417, 585, 750 |
| Gold-filled | A thick layer of gold mechanically bonded over a base metal core. It lasts for years, but heat still has to be handled with care | GF, 1/20 14K GF, 12K GF |
| Vermeil | Gold over sterling silver. When the gold wears, the silver underneath is still a sound, repairable metal | 925 or Sterling on a gold-coloured piece |
| Gold-plated | A thin layer of gold electroplated over base metal such as brass or copper alloy. Most fashion jewelry is made this way | GP, GEP, HGE, RGP, or no stamp at all |
No stamp at all usually points to plated or fashion jewelry, but not always — old and handmade pieces are sometimes unmarked. If you are unsure, photograph the inside of the ring or the clasp tag and let us look.
Why the gold wears off at the edges first
Plating is a thin layer, and it does not wear evenly. The edges, the corners and the raised parts are what rub against skin, clothing and other jewelry every single day, so that is where the base metal shows through first. The recessed areas and the back of a pendant keep their colour much longer. Perfume, lotion, chlorine and sweat all speed it up.
That pattern tells you something useful: once the base metal is showing at the edges, the layer everywhere else is usually thin as well. Re-plating puts a new layer on the whole piece, and a new layer on the same base metal will wear through at the same edges again — slower if you take the piece off for the shower, the pool and the gym, but it will.
Missing crystals and stones: you pay for the work, not the stone
This is the part people do not expect. A crystal or a cubic zirconia costs very little. Setting it takes the same bench work as setting a diamond: the empty seat is cleaned out, the stone is matched for size and colour, and it is secured so it does not fall out next month. That is why replacing a few small stones in a fashion piece can cost about the same as the same job on fine jewelry.
On many fashion pieces the stones are glued into their seats rather than held by prongs. The photo usually shows which kind yours is, and the quote says what the fix is. If other stones are loose already, that is worth knowing now — one trip to the bench instead of two. The details of how stones are held are on the stone setting page.
What heat does to a plated piece
Most chain, clasp and bail repairs on solid gold or silver mean soldering, and soldering means heat. On gold-plated and gold-filled pieces, soldering heat can burn through the thin gold layer and leave a dull patch of base metal around the join, and base metals do not take solder the way gold and silver do. That does not happen with solid gold.
So on a plated piece the repair is often chosen to avoid heat: a new clasp or a new jump ring instead of a solder join, or a new chain in a better metal when the old one has done its time. Pendant and charm repair explains which small part usually fails and what each fix is.
One request we had: a plated padlock pendant
A recent quote request was exactly this situation: a gold-plated padlock pendant on its necklace, the finish worn through, and a couple of stones missing. Two jobs in one piece — re-plating and stone replacement — and the honest first step is the same for both: find out what is under the plating, because that decides whether a new finish will last. Photos of the edges and of the back of the pendant usually answer it.
When we honestly advise against it
- Plated costume jewelry that is worn through, with no sentimental reason to keep it — the finish will go again, and a new piece may cost less than the repair.
- Base metal that has cracked or corroded under the plating. A new layer on a failing base does not fix the base.
- A piece that is mostly glue, where several parts are held together with adhesive rather than metal. It can be patched, but not made strong.
When it is worth it: a piece that means something to you, a vintage piece that cannot be bought again, or a design you love more than the material it is made of. In that case the repair is not about cost, and it is done with the same care as anything else on the bench. Repair or replace walks through the same decision for every kind of jewelry.
Do not polish plated jewelry with a polishing cloth or toothpaste. Anything abrasive takes the gold layer off faster, and on a plated piece there is very little of it to lose.
Do not glue a stone back in yourself. Household glue fogs the stone and has to be removed before the seat can be set properly, which adds to the job.
Do keep the stones that fell out, if you still have them. Put them in a small bag so they arrive with the piece — how to pack it.
What to photograph for a quote
- The edges, close upWhere the colour has worn. It shows how thin the layer is and what is underneath.
- Every empty stone seatSo the number and size of missing stones can be counted, and you can see whether they were set or glued.
- Any stamp you can findOn the inside of a ring, the clasp tag or the back of a pendant. 925, GF or 14K changes the whole answer.
- The whole piece, laid outSo nothing else that needs attention is missed.
Two or three clear photos and a line about what the piece means to you are usually enough for a written quote within one business day.
Where plated and fashion jewelry work sits on the price list
| If the problem is | The group it falls into | Starting at |
|---|---|---|
| Missing or loose stones, crystals or cubic zirconia | Stone Setting, stone charged at cost | $79 |
| A broken clasp, jump ring, bail or link on a necklace | Necklaces & Chains | $79 |
| A bracelet clasp or link | Bracelets & Bangles | $79 |
| Gold plating worn through | Re-plating, depends on what is under the plating | Quoted from photos |
These are the lowest starting points, not the final price. Every piece is inspected and quoted individually, you get one firm number, and nothing is worked on until you approve it. Every starting price in one place.
What comes back to you
- An honest answer before you ship, including when the answer is “not worth it”
- A written quote before anything is started, and nothing worked on until you approve it
- Any stones checked by a gemologist trained at HRD Antwerp and the ERIJ Foundation
- Insured, tracked return in a keepsake box, adult signature required on delivery
- A 12-month workmanship warranty
Questions about plated and fashion jewelry repair
Can gold-plated jewelry be re-plated?
Often, yes, but the first question is what is under the plating. Sterling silver under gold (vermeil) is a sound base that can be refinished again. Brass or other base metal under a thin layer can be re-plated too, but the new layer wears the same way the old one did. Re-plating is quoted individually from your photos, and you are told honestly whether it is worth doing before you ship anything.
Is it worth repairing gold-plated or fashion jewelry?
On cost alone, often not: the repair can cost about as much as a new piece, because you pay for a jeweler's bench time, not for the metal. It is worth it when the piece means something to you, when it is vintage and cannot be bought again, or when the design matters more than the material. Send a photo and we will tell you which case yours is.
How much does it cost to replace missing stones in fashion jewelry?
Replacing or re-setting stones is in the Stone Setting group, which starts at $79, and a replacement stone is charged at cost. A crystal or cubic zirconia is cheap, but setting it takes the same bench work as setting a diamond, so the price of the repair is mostly the work, not the stone. You get one firm written number before anything is started.
Why is the gold wearing off my jewelry at the edges?
Because plating is a thin layer, and the edges and raised parts are what rub against skin, clothing and other jewelry every day. The flat and recessed areas keep their colour much longer. Perfume, lotion, chlorine and sweat speed it up. Once the base metal shows through at the edges, the rest of the layer is usually thin too.
What is the difference between gold-plated, vermeil, gold-filled and solid gold?
Solid gold is gold alloy all the way through. Gold-filled has a thick layer of gold mechanically bonded over a base metal core. Gold-plated has a thin layer of gold electroplated over base metal. Vermeil is gold over sterling silver. Stamps help: 10K, 14K, 18K or 585 and 750 mean solid gold; GF or 1/20 14K GF means gold-filled; GP, GEP, HGE or RGP mean plated; 925 on a gold-coloured piece usually means vermeil.
Can a broken gold-plated chain be soldered?
Sometimes, with extra care. Soldering heat can burn through a thin gold layer and expose the base metal around the join, and base metals do not take solder the way gold and silver do. Often the better repair is a new clasp or jump ring rather than heat on the chain itself. You are told which one your piece needs before anything is started.